Permanent waving



Jab. 16, 1934.

v. J. GENTILE PERMANENT WAVING Patented Jan. 16, 1934 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE Beauty Utilities, Inc., Summit, N. J.,

poration of Delaware Application May 9, 1931. Serial No. 536,227

19 Claims. (01.132-36) The invention relates to hairdressing and, more particularly, to new and useful processes and mechanisms for the permanent waving of hair.

Objects and advantages of the invention will be set forth in part-hereinafter and in part will be obvious herefrom, or may be learned by practice with the invention, the same being realized and attained by means of the instrumentalities and combinations pointed out in the appended claims.

The invention consists in the novel parts, eonstructions, arrangements, combinations and improvements herein shown and described.

The accompanying drawings, referred to herein and constituting a part hereof, illustrate one embodiment of the invention, and together with the description, serve to explain the principles of the invention.

Of the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a fragmentary elevation of an apparatus embodying the invention and illustrating the use thereof;

Fig. 2 is a transverse vertical section of a permanent waving rod or mandrel adapted for the application of a cooling medium to the hair, part of said rod being shown in elevation with a tress of hair coiledthereupon;

Fig. 3 is an enlarged fragmentary section of the-rod shown in Fig. 2, with an attachment for supplying the refrigerating medium thereto;

Fig. 4 is a vertical longitudinal section of a separate tube for supplying a gaseous cooling fluid to a coil of hair;

'Fig. 5 is a vertical longitudinal section of a permanent wave heating tube provided with means, for applying a cooling fluid to a coil of hair encased in the heating tube;

Fig. 6 is a horizontal section taken on line 66 of Fig. 5; and

Fig. '7 is a view, similar to Fig. 4, of a cooling tube adapted for a liquid refrigerant.

The invention is directed to providing a novel and useful process for imparting a permanent wave to hair and novel means for carrying out the steps of said process. The invention is particularly directed to improving the effect of hair waving processes heretofore practiced by intensifying the changes in the contour of the hair imparted by the waving process and rendering said changes more lasting. Furthennore, the invention accelerates the waving process and overcomes or lessens the tendency of freshly treated hair to straighten before the wave has become set.

As is well known in the art, all so-called permanent waving processes employ heat, moisture and usually in combination suitable chemicals, to impart the desired contours or. conformation to normally straight hair. Usually, v individual tresses of hair are tightly coiled about individual rods or mandrels and each coil is encased in a separate heating tube and there subjected to the action of moisture, heat and chemicals for an appropriate time. After the requisite amount of heat has been applied to the coils of hair, the heating tubes are allowed to cool and are then withdrawn from the rods. Thereafter, the hair is unwound from the rods and. allowed to cool for a further period while in the tightly coiled state, preferably until it reaches the normal temperature, before the final setting or other usual subsequent treatment. Technically, it has been determined that this tight coiling and heating in the coiled state actually deforms the outlines or contours of the individual hairs by flattening out 7 portions of straight hairs, which are normally cylindrical.

I have discovered that the tendency of the hair to retain the shape imparted to it by the heating or steaming process can be greatly intensifled by suddenly cooling or chilling the hair immediately after the requisite amount 0;? heat has. been applied. The sudden chilling of the hair while it is in the heated state apparently causes the hairs to suddenly contract and set in the shapes imparted to them, so that the curl becomes very tight and the desired changes in form are effected more rapidly, completely and permanently than heretofore, thereby greatly increasing the efficiency, rapidity and effectiveness of the waving operation.

My invention comprises the novel process of relatively suddenly reducing the temperature of the heated coil ,of hair as soon as the heating operation has been completed. Preferably the cooling action is accomplished by subjecting the heated tress to the cooling action of a refrigerating medium, such as a fluid of relatively low temperature which will chill the hair and rapidly reduce it to, or below, its normal temperature. Such cooling medium will preferably be of a nature which will not react harmfully upon the hair nor detract in any way from the effects of the chemicals used in the heating operation. It is also essential that the cooling medium or operation have no harmful or disturbingefi'ect action of a dry cooling fluid, such as carbon dioxide gas, for example. However, my invention also contemplates the use of other cooling means, such as liquid solutions, as will be hereinafter described, and the invention is not limited to any particular cooling medium nor mode of application. The cooling gas or the like may be applied to the coil of hair while it is still encased in the heater tube and after the heating current has been cut off, or the heating means may be withdrawn and the chilling medium be applied independently, either by re-encasing the coiled tress in a separate cooling chamber, or by applying cooling fluid directly to the tress on the rod.

My invention further comprises novel means for applying the desired cooling medium to the individual tresses of hair on the head subsequent to the heating operation. As indicated in the foregoing paragraph, the cooling means may be connected to and operated as a part of the heater tubes or may comprise entirely separate devices for supplying the cooling fluid to the hair. In either case, the cooling apparatus is relatively simple, inexpensive and may be preferably incorporated as a part of the usual permanent waving equipment, without occupying much additional space or complicating the normal utilization of said equipment.

A further object of the invention is to provide a novel form of permanent-waving rod or mandrel which is adapted to transmit a cooling medium to the tress of hair wound thereupon. The invention also comprises a new and improved form of heating tube which is adapted for transmitting the chilling medium to the hair after the heating operation has been terminated. As a further modification, the invention provides novel chilling tubes per se which may be applied to the coiled tresses separately and independently from the heaters.

It will be clear that, by virtue of the novel chilling process of my invention, the quality of the permanent waving process is greatly enhanced. Moreover, the time required for the permanent waving process is considerably lessened because it is no longer necessary to undergo the long and tedious period of waiting for the hair to cool off naturally or by the use of blowers or other relatively inefiicient means. Accordingly, the comfort of the customer and the profit of the hairdresser are both augmented.

It will be understood that the foregoing general description and the following detailed description, as well, are exemplary and illustrative of the invention, but are not restrictive thereof.

Referring now in detail to the present preferred embodiment of the invention, illustrated by way of example in the accompanying drawings, the invention is shown as applied to a permanent waving machine which may be considered as typical or standard in present modern practice. As shown, the permanent waving machine consists of a plurality of electric heater tubes which are adapted to fit over and encase individual coils of hair on the customers head, said coils being formed about permanent waving rods or mandrels, as indicated in Fig. 2. The heater tubes preferably comprise cylindrical aluminum tubes containing electrical resistance coils adapted to generate the desired heat. As indicated, the resistance coils of the heating tubes 1 are connected by insulated lead wires 2 to a central electrical outlet manifold 3 for distributing current to the coils. Any known or suitable switch gas may be introduced into the rods.

means may be provided for controlling the heating current to the coils, either collectively or individually.

While the embodied form of the invention is exemplarily illustrated as cooperating with electrical heating devices, the cooling operation and devices can be applied equally well with steam heating means or other types of heaters.

As shown, the manifold 3 is supported above the head of the customer, as by ceiling bracket 4. Means for supporting and balancing the weights of the heater coils comprise individual counterweights 5 which are attached to the respective heating tubes 1 by cords 6 which run over pulleys 7, said pulleys being suspended from suitable overhead brackets 8 in a well known manner.

The invention comprises apparatus for generating or providing a cooling fluid and for controllably supplying said fluid to the heated coils of hair. As embodied, a source of low-temperature producing gas is provided comprising a tank or container 10 of well known structure for maintaining a supply of carbon dioxide under high pressure. The means for supplying the chilling gas to the hair at the desired low temperature and relatively low pressure, comprises an intermediate expansion chamber 11, which may be conveniently attached to the container 10, as by straps 12. The gas is supplied to the expansion chamber at the desired rate through valve 13 and 1f conduit 14, the conduit being provided with a suitable expansion nozzle (not shown) for effecting efficient refrigerating expansion of the gas into the chamber 11.

The gas having been primarily expanded and j the individual coils of hair, said hoses being suitably connected with the chamber at 21.

In the preferred form of means for transmitting the chilling gas or fluid to the heated coils of hair, I utilize the permanent waving rods or mandrels themselves. example, the permanent waving rod 30, having any conventional hair-attaching means 31 at its lower end, comprises a tube having a bore 32 throughout its greater length. This construction As shown in Fig. 2, for

is common in the art, most permanent waving rods being made of hollow aluminum to secure a minimum weight.

In accordance with the invention, the tubular rod 30 is adapted to receive the cooling gas in its hollow interior and transmit same to the encircling tress of air. As shown, the upper end of the tubular rod is open, whereby gas may be introduced into the bore of the rod by means to be hereinafter described, while the tubular portion of the rod is provided with a plurality of relatively a small perforations 33, disposed in staggered relation along and about the tube. These perforations 33 permit passage of the refrigerating gas outwardly from the interior of the rod and through the tress of hair coiled thereabout.

Means are provided for coupling the open ends of the rods 30 to the gas hoses 25, so that the cold As shown (Fig. 3) a coupling valve 35 is attached to the end of gas hose 25, said valve being adapted to to the flexible metal hose 25 by a suitable screwgrasp the end of the rod and automatically transmit the cold gas thereinto. As embodied, the valve 35 comprises an internally threaded cylindrical casing 36, which is fixed at its upper end threaded connection 37. The lower end of casing 36 is-slotted and contracted to provide a resilient annular coupling comprising gripping fingers 38 which fit tightly about the upper end of the rod 30. The gripping fingers are indented to provide a contracting boss 39 which presses tightly against the surface of the rod and is adapted to snap into and cooperate with the annular recess 40 near the upper end of the rod. The lower ends of the fingers 38 are flared outwardly to facilitate insertion of the rod into the valve head.

The coupling valve 35 is adapted to automatically transmit gas from the hose 25 to the hollow rod 30 upon completion of'the, coupling move.- ment. As embodied, cylindrical bushing 45 is exteriorly threaded to cooperate with the screw- ,threaded interior of casing 36. The upper edge of bushing 45 is bevelled to providea valve seat 46, against which the head 47 of spring-mounted valve plunger 48 is adapted to rest. Preferably a gas-tight pad or gasket 50 of rubber or other suitable material is interposed between the valve seat 46-and the lower ,face of the head 47. The valve plunger 48 comprises a hollow cylindrical stem having an out-turned flange 51 at its lower end, said flange being adapted to lie fiush against the square upper end of the rod 30, as shown. The upper end of the hollow plunger is interiorly threaded to receive the screw-threaded stem 52 cf the valve head 47 The-cylindrical stem of the plunger 48 is provided with a plurality of medianly disposed openings 55 which communicate with the interior of the cylindrical bushing 45 and the lower portion of the cylindrical casing 36. The valve is normally tightly held in its closed position with the gasket 50 pressed against the seat 46, a helical spring 56 being mounted about the valve stem between the lower surface of bushing 45 and the flange 51 for this purpose. Preferably, a gas tight washer 57 lies upon the upper surface of flange 51 so as to prevent escape of gas exteriorly of the tube 30. I As shown in Fig. 3, the coupling valve is in closed position and ready for the coupling of the partially inserted tube 30. In operation, the valve 35 is pushed downwardly from the position shown in Fig. 3, causing the fingers 38 to snap into coupling contact with recess 40. By virtue of this coupling movement, the valve plunger 48 will-be pushed upwardly against the pressure of spring 56, thereby raising valve head 47 and opening passage between the .upper portion of thecasing 36 and the interior of the cylindrical bushing 45. Thus the gas from the pipe 25 can move through the openings 55 in the plunger and into the open end of the tubular rod 30. It will be clear that the coupling of the valve head to the rod'automatically effects passage of cooling gas into the interior of the perforated rod 30 and thence immediately outwardly through and into intimate contact with the coil of hair thereon; Upon uncoupling of the rod from the valve head, which is done merely by pulling the two apart, the valve automatically seats itself and cuts ofi further flow of gas.

Although the cooling gas may be passed into the rod 30 while the latter is surrounded by or encased in the heating tube 1, the invention permits the removal of the heating tube from around the coil of hair prior to introduction of the coolbecause the refrigerant does not need to overcome the residual heat in the heating tube and con.

sequently the cooling action is more rapid. As, embodied, the casing 36 of the valve coupling is.

made of a diameter substantially less than that of the interior of the standard heating tube 1. Accordingly, when the heating current has been cut off the valve head 35 may be immediately coupled to the upper end of rod 30 which protrudes from the heating tube 1. The heating tube can then be pulled away from the head, sliding over the exterior of the valve coupling 35 and along the hose 25, (left of Fig. 1) thereby exposing the lower end of the hose and the rod 30 coupled thereto. valve or valves may be provided in the expansion chamber 20 or in the conduit 15, whereby the admission of gas to the hoses 25 may be controlled to take placesimultaneously and at the time desired. Such a valve is indicated at 64, and by virtue thereof the hoses may be coupled to the ends of the rods 30 at any time prior to or during the heating operation and the gas turned on as .soon as the heating current is out 01f.

As diagrammatically indicated at 60, a suitableground connection may be provided leading from the chamber 20 or adjacent parts, whereby static electricity created by therush of gas from the expansion nozzle is dissipated as soon as generated and possible sparking prevented.

Various modifications of the means for applying the refrigerating medium to the hair are exemparily illustrated in Figs. '4, 5, 6 and '7. In the form shown in Fig. 4, a separate chilling tube is disclosed, whereby the cooling gas may be applied to the hair after the heating tubes have been removed. With this modification, if desired, the cooling tubes and the accompanying gas-supply apparatus may be mounted and transported wholly independently of the permanent waving machine for operating the heating tubes. As embodied, a tube having an interior bore 65 is provided with an outer shell 66, forming a hollow chamber 6'7 around the exterior of tube 65. The lower end of the shellis joined to the bottom'of the tube 65' to form a bottom closure, as shown at 68. At the upper end of the shell, an annular plug 69 of hard rubber or other suitable material is positioned between the interior" surface of the shell and the exterior of tube 65, said plug having an overlapping flange '70 to prevent escape of gas exteriorly of the assembled device.

Means are provided for introducing the cooling gas into the space 67. As embodied, an annular chamber 71 is formed in the interior of the plug 69, said chamber being provided with a plurality of ports '72 in the lowerportion of the plug. A gas-supply port 73 is provided in the upper surface of shell 66, said port being screwthreaded to permit attachment of a gas-supply nozzle '74 which communicates through hose 75 with any suitable source of the low-temperature gas, such as the tank-20 hereinbefore described.

The tube 65 is provided with a plurality of radial- If desired, a suitable master a heating tube of more or less standard construction is shown, comprising the tube (of aluminum or other suitable heat conducting maand construction to the casing 66 shown in Fig.

4. The upper end of the tube assembly is provided with an insulating plug 84, to which the upper end of the casing is attached by screws 85. The lead wires 86 for the resistance coils pass through holes 87 in plug 84 as shown.

In accordance with the invention, the heating tube mechanism described is adapted for direct introduction of the cooling gas on to the encased hair coil. As embodied, plug 84 is provided with an interior annular chamber 90 which corresponds in structure and function to the chamber '71 of the tube shown in Fig. 4. A screwthreaded socket 91 permits connection of the gas tube 92 with said annular chamber 90. The gas introduced from tube 92 passes through apertures 93 in the bottom of plug 84 into the gas chamber 94 between the heating tube 80 and the'casing 83. A plurality of spaced apertures 95 are provided in the tube 80 and through the overlying mica shell 82, whereby gas from chamber 94 passes into the heating tube and chills the coil of hair encased therein.

While the disclosed devices in Figs. 1 to 6 inclusive are adapted to directthe cold gas directly onto and into contact with the hair, it will be understood that the chilling effect may be imparted to the hair solely'by conduction and radiation from the chilling tubes, if desirable.

For example, the apertures 33, 76 and 95 may be omitted from their respective devices, whereby the gas will serve merely to chill the tubes and the hair adjacent the chilled tubes will be cooled by conduction and radiation therefrom.

It will be clear that the combined heating and chilling tube shown in Figs. 5 and 6 can be used -with a permanent waving machine in much the same manner as illustrated with the apparatus shown in'Fig. 1. That is, both the circuit wires 86 and the flexible gas conduits 92 from each tube will be attached to the sources of electric current and cold gas, respectively, and suitable switches and valves may beprovided to control the applications of the heating current and the chilling as. ,In the embodiments of my invention hereinbefore described, carbon dioxide or other similar low-temperature gas has been disclosed as the preferred chilling medium. It will be obvious that carbon dioxide possesses many practical advantages over other commercial refrigerants for the purposes of the present invention. This gas is readily obtainable in suitable containers, such as those supplied to confectionery stores, and the cost thereof is very little. Furthermore, this gas is colorless, odorless and non-inflammable so that no danger or discomfort to the user is entailed by the use thereof. Nevertheless, it .will be understood that my invention is not limited to the use of carbon dioxide as a cooling medium and that the invention contemplates the use of equivalent gases and/or liquids or any other means for chilling the heated coils of hair.

In Fig. 7 is illustrated an embodiment of the invention wherein the cooling efiect is produced bysolvent action. As embodied, a separate chilling tube 100, is provided, to be used after the heating tube has been withdrawn from the hair in the same manner as described in connection with the separate chilling tube shown in Fig. 4. As shown, tube is provided with an exterior, spaced-apart casing 101 which is joined to the bottom of the inner tube 100 to form a water tight joint, as by an interlocking bending together of the ends of the tube and casing. The upper end of the annular chamber formed between tube 100 and casing 101 is closed by a suitable screwthreaded plug 102 which may have a water tight gasket 103 between it and the upper edge of the casing.

As shown, the annular chamber 104 is adapted to contain a predetermined quantity of a dry salt or other chemical compound. Said salt or other compound will be one having a large negative heat of-solution, and in the present preferred form of the invention, I have found that sodium thiosulphate is very effective for producing a very low temperature substantially immediately upon the introduction of water therewith. Accordingly means are provided for introducing a regulable quantity of water into the chamber 104, comprising a canal 107 in the plug 102. The upper surface of the plug is provided with a stud 108 of suitable shape for the attachment of a rubber hose 109 or the like, whereby water may be supplied as desired to the interior of chamber 104.

. In the operation of-the invention, it will be clear that tube 100 may be passed over the heated coil of hair after the heating tube 1 has been withdrawn. The chamber 104 will contain a predetermined quantity of sodium thiosulphate crystals 110 or the like. When it is desired to initiate the chilling action, water may be introduced into the chambers 104 by means of the tubes 109 and suitable valve devices (not shown). A very low temperature will be created almost instantaneously and will be communicated to the coil of hair by conduction from tube 100. When the desired amounted of chilling has been'imparted to the hair, the tubes 100 may be withdrawn. In order to prepare the tubes for re-use, the cap or plug 102 may be unscrewed, the solution poured out and the tube dried and refilled with the fresh salt.

The invention in its broader aspects is not limited to the specific mechanisms shown and described but departures may be made therefrom within the scope of the accompanying claims without departing from the principles of the invention and without sacrificing its chief advantages. i

What I claim is:-

1. The porcess of waving hair which comprises heating a coiled tress of hair and thereafter applying a chilling medium to the hair to cause the heated hairs to contract and set in their coiled position.

2. In the process of waving hair, the steps of heating a coiled tress of hair above its normal temperature and thereafter suddenly cooling said tress below its normal temperature.

3. In the process of waving hair,'the steps of heating a coiled tress of hair and thereafter applying a dry chilling medium thereto.

4. In the process of waving hair, the steps of heating a coiled tress of hair and thereafter applying a gaseous chilling medium thereto.

5. In the process of waving hair, the steps of heating a coiled tress of hair by applying heat externally of the coil and thereafter cooling the coil by passing a cooling medium outwardly from the interior of the coil. 2

6. Hair waving mechanism including in combination a device for supporting a curl of hair and means for heating hair supported upon said device and means for cooling the heated hair.

7. Hair waving mechanism including in combination curl-supporting means, means for preheating the hair upon the supporting means, a source of cooling fluid, and means for transmitting said fluidto the curl-supporting means to cool the hair.

8. In an apparatus for permanent waving, the combination with means for heating a tress of hair of means for chilling said tress below its normal temperature after the heating operation.

9. In an apparatus for permanent waving, in combination, means for heating a tress of hair and means for cooling said tress below its normal temperature.

10. In an apparatus for permanent waving, in combination, means for subjecting a tress of hair to a relatively high temperature and means for subjecting said heated tress to a relatively low temperature.

11. In an apparatus for permanent waving, in combination, means for subjecting a tress of hair to a relatively high temperature and means for relatively suddenly subjecting the heated tress to a low temperature.

12. In an apparatus for permanent waving, in combination, a permanent waving rod adapted to support a tress of hair coiled thereabout, means for heating the tress, a source of chilling the fluid, and means for applying said fluid to the hair on the rod.

13. In an apparatus for permanent waving, in combination, a permanent waving rod-adapted to support a tress of hair coiled thereabout, means for heating the tress, a tube for encasing the rod andfhair thereon, and means for supplying a chilling fluid to the exterior of the tube to chill the coil of hair encased therein.

14. In an apparatus for permanent waving, in combination, a permanent waving rod adapted to support a tress of hair coiled thereabout, a heating tube for encasing the rod and hair thereon, and means for passing a chilling fluid around and through the tube to chill the hair encased therein.

15. As an article of manufacture, a tubular permanent waving rod for receiving a coiled tress of hair, electrical means for heating the tress and means on the rod for permitting introduction of a chilling fluid to the interior thereof.

16. In the process of waving hair, the steps of heating a coiled tress of hair and thereafter passing low-temperature carbon dioxide gas in contact with the heated hair.

17. A hairdressing mechanism including in combination a perforate tube upon which a tress of hair is wound, a heating device surrounding the wound tress, and means for supplying fluid within and through said perforate tube to the interior of the wound tress thereon.

18. A hairdressing mechanism including in combination a perforate tube upon which a tress of hair is wound, a device comprising. electrical heating means positionable about the wound tress, and means for supplying fluid within and through said perforate tube to the interior of the wound tress thereon.

19. A hairdressing mechanism including in combination a perforate tube upon which a tress of hair is wound, said tube having its exterior end open, a heating device movable into position surrounding the wound tress, and means operating from said open end for supplying unheated fluid within and through said perforate tube to the interior of the wound tress thereon.

VIRGINIO JEAN GENTILE. 

